Thursday, April 16, 2009

Bengali Mutton Curry | Pathar Mangsho'r Jhol


Bengali Mutton Curry, Robibar er Mangshor Jhol, Mangshor Jhol

Bengali Mutton Curry | Pathar Mangshor Jhol

The Bengali Mutton Curry made with Goat meat is synonymous with Sundays and daytime naps. Made with potatoes and spiced with garam masala, this rich and spicy Mangshor Jhol is best enjoyed with rice.


Sunday Mutton Curry

Mutton Curry in Oven

Phissssssssssh went the pressure cooker, not once or twice but 5-6 times. With each whistle the appetizing fragrance would trace the room, trying to find its way out of the wide windows. The sun would be high up by then and the drapes drawn in while the Rasna Kids sang aloud happily on the Tele. As Spiderman saved the world the mind wandered in anticipation of lunch.

Ma would be busy in the kitchen, her cotton saree damp and smelling headily of all the spices. If you dug your face in her coolness, today would smell different. It was Sunday and you would smell Mangshor jhol (Mutton/Chicken Curry). A Sunday Lunch menu that once united almost all Bongs, it was a tradition of sorts to have nothing but mangsho'r jhol & bhaat for Sunday lunch. The meat could vary, it could be patha'r mangsho(goat meat) for the more traditional, archaic family or murgi(chicken) for the noveau ones.

The recipe wouldn't vary much. It would revolve around the same core with potatoes and lots of gravy. You wouldn't see a Murgh Malai or Lamb Chop i.e. just any preparation of meat would not do. Those were stuff for evenings, maybe dinner but Sunday Lunch was different, it was always the same mangsho'r jhol that had Bangali Sunday Lunch written in bold all over it

My grandparents were strict Brahmins and adhered to Bengali Brahmin norms. That didn't mean much except that the only meat that was allowed in their home was patha'r mangsho (goat meat) and not murgi (aka chicken). So Sunday lunch was almost always bengali mutton curry and rice. I wasn't very fond of goat meat then but loved the gravy and the potatoes in it.

I vaguely remember a particular period of our life, a couple of months maybe, my parents were going through some difficult financial situation. My grandma was not well and I think the food budget was adjusted in lieu of her treatment. I was too young(maybe 6 or 7) to understand but I do remember the Sunday mangsho'r jhol was off the menu and there used to be fish for lunch instead. One such Sunday I was visiting friends and the familiar smell of Mangsho'r Jhol at their home triggered the latent longing in me. I don't remember what I told my Ma but I do remember that the familiar smell was back at our kitchen next Sunday onwards. Maybe my Ma cooked meat just for me or maybe the finances solved themselves but that is how mangsho'r jhol is woven into crevices of my memory


Mangshor Jhol, Bengali Mutton Curry, Sunday Mutton Curry

Mangshor Jhol | Bengali Mutton Curry

Times have changed. We hardly eat goat meat or any red meat that much. There is no fixed menu for a Sunday lunch at my home to weave memories. But Patha'r mangsho or goat meat still holds a lofty place and is cooked on special occasions. So that is how this got cooked when friends were visiting some weeks back.

On a leisurely Sunday we had a delectable Patha'r mangsho'r jhol (goat meat curry) with white rice amidst much laughter and adda(gossip), spending hours sucking the juicy marrows over a lazy delicious lunch

What was/is your Sunday lunch tradition ?


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Patha'r Mangshor Jhol ~ Goat Meat Curry



Prep: Dry Roast 8 Green Cardamaom/Elaichi, 8 Clove/Laung, one petal of mace/javetri, 1" stick of cinnamon, 3 Dry Red Chilli on a stove top or pop them in the oven for a couple of minutes. Grind them to a fine powder. This acts as my Garam Masala and this is the masala that will be used in this mutton curry

Marinate 3lb of mutton(goat meat) with 2 tsp of ginger paste, 2 tsp of garlic paste, a little turmeric, 1 tbsp of Vinegar, 1 tsp of Mustard Oil and salt for 3-4 hours or overnight

Start Cooking:

Step 1

Heat Oil in a deep heavy bottomed pan

Fry 2 &1/2 - 3 cups chopped red onion, 2 fat clove of garlic chopped, 1 medium tomato chopped and 2" piece of peeled and chopped ginger till the onion is soft and pink and tomatoes are softened

Cool and grind the above to make a onion+tomato+garlic+ginger paste

OR

Make separate paste of onion and a separate ginger + garlic paste. Amount remains same. My Ma does it this way.

Step 2

Heat Oil in a heavy deep bottomed pan

Temper the oil with whole spices as follows: 4 Cardamom/Elaichi, 4 Clove/Laung, 2 Bay Leaf/Tej-Patta, 2" cinnamon stick/Darchini

As soon as you get the fragrance of the spices add the onion+ginger+garlic+tomato paste. If you have made separate pastes, add the onion paste first and fry till onion is a nice pinkish brown, then add ginger+garlic paste and fry for 1-2 minutes and then add the chopped tomato

Fry with 1/4 tsp of sugar till oil separates from masala

Meanwhile in a small bowl make a paste with 4 tsp yogurt, 1 heaped tsp Cumin Powder, 1 heaped tsp Corriander powder, 1 tsp of Red Chilli Powder (adjust according to your level), the Dry Masala you made and 1 tsp of garlic paste(optional)

Lower the heat and add this masala paste. Add 1 more medium tomato finely chopped

Fry for 2-3 minutes

Add the mutton and mix the mutton nicely with the masala

Add salt, lower the heat to medium and let the mutton cook in its own juice. Stir in between to facilitate the meat to soak up the spices

While the mutton is cooking in a separate pan fry 1-2 potatoes that had been peeled and quartered with a little turmeric. The potatoes will not be cooked but just take on a nice golden color. Do not cook further and keep aside.

Step 3

When the mutton has lost its raw coloring and it smells nice you can transfer the whole thing to a pressure cooker along with the potatoes and cook it in the pressure cooker.

OR

If you have time on hand do this. Cook the mutton at low heat in the covered pan itself. Remember to stir in between and add water if necessary. Some water has to be added for the gravy, adjust the amount of water according to your wish. You can use a slow cooker if you have one and cook the mutton in it too.

If you are cooking in the pan, check when mutton is near to be done and then add the potatoes.

Cook till mutton and potatoes are done
Check for seasonings and adjust to taste. You might need to add a tsp of garam masala. I sometimes add juice of half a lime and finely chopped coriander at the end.

Enjoy this delicious mutton curry with any kind of rice or bread

Though not the usual trend you can garnish this dish with chopped corriander. Also when I am having this mutton curry with rice I like to squeeze a little lime juice on it and have onions as a side.

Update: I forgot to add that D (the husband) makes a goat meat curry which is simpler and yet very flavorful. Shall post that next time he cooks.
Also wanted to add that instead of making onion paste many times my Ma would use finely chopped onion too. For a larger crowd I find it easier to make a paste than chop fine

Wednesday, April 15, 2009

A Walkthrough of Bengali Cuisine

I did a write up on Bengali Cuisine for Indian Food Trail Series for dear Sailaja of Sailus Food.

I was delighted that she posted the article today on Poila Baisakh

Go over and check it out if you want to know more about the Bengali Cuisine. Ok go over and check it out even if you don't want to. While you are there check out all others on the Indian Food Trail series.

This is the link to the article:
Bengali Cuisine -- by Sandeepa of Bong Mom's CookBook

bandhakopi


Since Sailaja has asked me to write a guest post on Bengali Cuisine for her blog I have been in deep thought, given that she made a polite request some months back, I have been very thoughtful ever since.
There is so much to write and such a vast cuisine to encompass that I wasn’t even sure I would do justice. Because you see, Bengali Cuisine has subtle nuances which varies within districts of West Bengal and not so subtle differences when you compare Bengali cuisine across borders from Bangladesh and that from West Bengal.

So I thought I would take the easy way out and stick to the kind of Bengali Food or Cuisine I am familiar with, the kind I have had for breakfast, lunch, dinner day in and day out while growing up, the kind my Ma makes everyday till date, the kind I have seen my Dida, my Grandma, my Aunts, my Husband’s family make, the kind I cannot live without for more than a week and so cook for myself.

My Ma in spite of spending many of her years outside Bengal in a neighboring state, was very Bangali when it came to food. She did delve into all kinds of cuisine when it came to breakfast or tiffin items, but lunch and dinner on weekdays was strictly Bengali. Only occasionally when my Baba would be out of town would she shift from this and serve a dinner of say Aloo Paratha and Raita or maybe Noodles, such stuff was meant for tiffin or packed lunches and having them for sit down dinner or lunch on a weekday was well radical.
Here I will describe a typical everyday, simple Bengali lunch which you will be served if you land up in a Bengali home in a small hamlet in Bengal on a hot afternoon. With the sun beating down on your back and the sleepy ghugoos making their call among the green shady trees if you happen to knock on the wooden doors of a Bangali home, you will be welcomed with a cool tumbler of aam-pora sherbet (green mangoes roasted and made into a sherbet) or daab er jaal (naariyal pani or coconut water) .
Once you are refreshed and sit down for your lunch, chances are this is what you will be served as was in my home many moons ago.

A typical everyday lunch would begin with something bitter, definitely if it was Spring or early Summer, occasionally in other seasons. It would be either Bittergourd (Uchche) or Neem Leaves. Fried Bittergourd, bittergourd fried with eggplant, fried tender neem-begun (neem leaves with eggplant) and even boiled bittergourd with mashed potatoes were served as starter to cleanse your system and invigorate the taste bud. Shukto is another bitter veggie dish that you might get if you are lucky.

Next was the Dal, this would usually be Moong or Masoor, Cholar Dal (Chana dal) with tiny coconut pieces on special days and Kalai er dal (Split White Urad Dal) when there was Aloo Posto or Aloo Seddho (Mashed Potatoes). Toor or Arhar Dal is not a very common dal in a Bengali household unless you are a Probashi bangali and have settled down up North.

Served with the Dal there is typically a Bhaja -- a fried veggie. The most routine bhajas are Thin Sliced Potato Fries or Aloo Bhaja, Fried Eggplant or Begun Bhaja and Bittergroud fries or Uchche Bhaja. In summer when parwal was in season, there would be lots of patol bhaja or fried parwal. On days my Ma was feeling particularly liberal the bhaja would be some veggie dipped in a batter of gram flour and fried like the Beguni or Fulkopir Bora (Cauliflower dipped in a spicy gram flour batter and fried).

Next would be a purely vegetarian dish made of any veggie that was in season. Typically most authentic Bengali vegetarian dishes are without garlic or even onion and minimum spices to retain their natural flavor. This could range from Charchari or a Labra, both of which are a medley of random veggies to a Lau Ghonto (Dry sabzi with Bottlegourd) or BandhaKopir Ghonto (a dry Cabbage & Potato Dish) or some other such stuff. There could be a Cauliflower Gravy (Phulkopir Dalna) or the much loved Aloo Posto. In fact this item could be anything with veggies that were brought back fresh from the market that day.

doi-ilish

Then of course comes the Fish without which a Bangali cannot survive. Looking back I see we had fish twice a day almost every day, except on Fridays which was a vegetarian day at our home and Sunday which was the Chicken or Mutton Day. Some days Fish was substituted with Egg Curry but there had to be a non-veg item on the menu every day if God or Nature didn’t intervene.

Regular Fish curries were not very spicy or rich. Fresh fish pieces were fried with salt and turmeric and then cooked into a gravy dish. The gravy could have infinite avatars from jhaal (a spicy gravy) to jhol (a very soupy kind of gravy, sometimes with vegetables). The ones that still arouse my tatsebuds are Doi-Maach (Fish in a gravy of spicy yogurt), Sosrshe Ilish (Hilsa in mustardy gravy), Chingri Malaikari (Prawns in a coconut milk based gravy), Tyangra maacher Jhaal (small fish in a spicy sauce) and many many more. Both big as well as small fishes are enjoyed and put to good use in Bengali Cooking, the small fishes are devoured whole from head to toe while the head of the bigger fishes are made into a delicious Muri Ghonto.

To wrap it all up there would be a Chaatni or a Tak, something sweet and sour made with tomatoes in winter or Green Mangoes in summer. There were variations to this of course with other fruits like pineapple, a papaya and even guess what FISH. My Dida(maternal grandma) used to make an awesome Ilish er Tak with bones and heads of Hilsa and tamarind that was to die for.

The end would be either with a Doi (yogurt) or some Mishti(a sweet dish) , which is what Bengalis are famous for outside Bengal. If it was a birthday or an occasion to celebrate there would be Paayesh (rice pudding).

Since Bengalis are primary rice eaters all of this would be served with Plain White Rice and a wedge of lemon and Green Chillies on the side.

If you are a vegetarian and don’t eat the fish you would be served Chanar Dalna (a Paneer Gravy dish), Dhokar Dalna (chana dal steamed cakes in a gravy) or another Vegetarian Dish which would be gravy-ish in lieu of the Fish Curry.

Such elaborate 6 course meals encompassing six tastes or raasas are no longer common in my home here in the US. There is little time for such leisurely meals in our busy life. We still have primarily Bengali food everyday but it seldom goes the full circle from bitter to the sweet. But when I am back home in India or my Ma or Ma-in-law is visiting those days are back again.
This is not a write up on Bengali Cuisine but what I am familiar with as an every day home lunch at a Bengali home

Following are links to the recipe on my blog for some of the dishes I have mentioned in this article:
Kalai er dal
Charchari
Aloo Posto
Lau Ghonto
Muri Ghonto
Doi Maach
Doi Sorshe Ilish
Chingri Malaikari or Prawn Malaikari
Tomato Khejur Chaatni

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Shubho NaboBorsho -- Poila Boisakh


Photobucket


May your hopes and aspirations take flight this New Year
On the bright wings of peace and happiness


Wishing everyone who stops by a very Happy Bengali New Year

Nabo Borsho 2008

Nabo Borsho 2007


* Poila Baisakh, the first day of Baisakh marks the start of the Bengali New Year